For those who find Finnish Lapland not northern enough, there is another Arctic challenge: Tromsø, Norway. It is one of the northernmost cities in the world, only 2,260 kilometers from the North Pole. For several months in winter, the sun does not rise at all, and the short morning and afternoon hours resemble twilight. So, are you ready for one of the most unusual travel experiences of your life?
Tromsø: brief information
Tromsø is a small Norwegian town located 400 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle. Its population is only 77,000 people. A quarter of them are students and teachers at the university of the same name. Yes, your intuition is correct: Tromsø is a very youthful city. This is evident in its abundance of entertainment infrastructure and overall lively atmosphere.
Tourists have two main fears about Tromsø, both of which are quite justified: freezing to death and disappearing into the darkness. Fortunately, neither of these fears is confirmed in practice. On the way to Tromsø from Kilpisjärvi, Finland, I watched in horror as the thermometer crept toward minus 35 outside the window. And yet the Finnish tundra is much further south than the Norwegian city.
Paradoxically, 160 kilometers to the north, the temperature changed from minus 35 to a comfortable minus nine. That's what the life-giving Gulf Stream does! It is precisely the warm ocean current that makes the climate of this coastal town mild. The record low temperature in Tromsø is only minus 18. Any Belarusian has experienced more extreme moments in their winter life.
This does not mean that you should neglect warm clothing. You will be taking many walks, including in nature, so take care of your health.
And what about the polar night? It does indeed exist, but rumors exaggerate it, both literally and figuratively. In Tromsø, the polar night during the day resembles the white nights of the well-known St. Petersburg. The sun does not appear, but there is no darkness either. It creates a very atmospheric effect. You can enjoy this borderline state for five hours, and then night falls as night does. To keep the blues at bay, the people of Tromsø brightly illuminate the streets and houses. I have never seen a city so well lit.
How to get to Tromsø
My northern route went through Helsinki-Rovaniemi-Kilpisjärvi-Tromsø-Oslo. You can repeat it in the same order or swap Norway and Finland around.
How to get there from Rovaniemi
The capital of Finnish Lapland, Rovaniemi, and Tromsø are connected by a bus route that passes through the small village of Kilpisjärvi. I broke up the journey into Rovaniemi-Kilpisjärvi, traveling by Onnibus bus for €65 (some trips are canceled due to low demand), and from Kilpisjärvi to Tromsø by Best Arctic bus for €50. This way, you can not only make a stopover in Kilpisjärvi, but also save €35-40, as a direct flight from Rovaniemi to Tromsø on Best Arctic costs €150.
You can just as easily take a direct flight from Rovaniemi to Tromsø: it takes an hour and a half and costs about the same. But then you'll miss out on the opportunity to admire the Finnish tundra. And it's worth it, especially in the sunset.
How to get there from Oslo
The best option would be to fly. And it doesn't have to be a low-cost airline. Budget airlines offer flights at roughly the same price. Norwegianand the highly rated SAS. As you can see in the screenshot, it is quite possible to find tickets in December for €100 round trip.
Those who are afraid of flying may consider utilizing rail and bus transportation. However, this would be a challenging and costly option. It would involve multiple transfers, more than a day of travel, and a price tag at least twice as high as flying.
Tips on accommodation, food, and local transportation
They are obvious: comfort in Norway is very expensive. You can travel on a budget in Tromsø, but you will have to deny yourself many things.
First, accommodation. I recommend considering hostels, which seem like a more than appropriate option given the youthful atmosphere of the city. Based on my own experience, I can recommend CoCo Apartments Tromso — cozy, clean, and close to the center. The night cost 50 euros.
The most modest trip to a café for a bite to eat starts at €15 per person. But you're more likely to spend at least €30-40, and that's without alcohol. Even a can of beer in a shop will cost €5.
By the way, keep in mind that to prevent locals from drowning their sorrows in alcohol, it is not sold after 8 p.m. (in the case of beer) or even 6 p.m. (in the case of stronger drinks). On Saturdays, opening hours are even shorter, and Sundays are completely dry. Anything stronger than beer must be purchased at specialized Vinmonopolet stores. You can read more about alcohol policy in Norway here.
Tromsø has a convenient and extensive public transport network. You can reach all the main attractions and the airport by bus. However, this requires some advance preparation. The ideal option is to download the Troms Billett app in advance and link your bank card to it. Alternatives such as buying tickets from vending machines or from the driver (who only accepts Norwegian kroner) will cost you time, as there are are few, as are currency exchange locations. The ideal option is to purchase a 24-hour ticket for €10 in the app.
What to see
Well-lit Tromsø looks like the sun in the middle of an endless dark galaxy. Even in the coldest months, it is pleasant to walk around the city. There are several parks, a harbor, and fjords within walking distance. But there are a few locations that are especially worth your attention.
Storgata
This is the city's main pedestrian street, lined with souvenir shops, cafes, and cozy gingerbread houses. The colorful wooden buildings inevitably raise the question: can they really protect against the cold? You bet they can! It is especially nice that Norwegians illuminate their homes as much as possible to avoid polar gloom. During all my days walking around Tromsø, I saw only one unlit house. So it feels like an endless fair.
Tromsø Bridge
It connects the mainland and island parts of the city (yes, Tromsø consists of two parts). The one-kilometer bridge is the northernmost bridge in Europe. Despite the winds blowing over it, I strongly recommend taking a walk across it in the morning and evening. The bridge offers spectacular views of the harbor and fjords.
And walking across the bridge is an adrenaline rush. The unique design of the structure creates a feeling of swaying beneath your feet. Your imagination will fill in the rest of this nerve-wracking situation. Just remind yourself that you are standing 38 meters above the icy water and that an 80-meter span suspended in the air is keeping you from plunging into it.
Arctic Cathedral
The bridge leads to two of the city's main attractions. The first is the Arctic Cathedral. The cathedral's triangular shape resembles a glacier. The creators of the cathedral based the exterior and interior decoration on the number three. For example, the main stained-glass window depicts the hand of God, from which three rays of light emanate—toward Jesus Christ and two people standing next to him.
The cathedral periodically hosts organ music concerts and choir performances. You can listen to them for the price of admission to the cathedral: 70 crowns or 6 euros. The concert schedule can be found here. Please note that admission to the cathedral is only possible during limited hours, usually from 12 noon to 5 p.m.
Mount Fleia
The second and main attraction of the mainland part of the city. Have you ever dreamed of seeing postcard views of Tromsø like the one in the photo below? Well, they are taken from Mount Fløya. You can conquer it (using the Sherpatrappa hiking trail) or submit to it (using the Fjellheisen lift). The lift is quite expensive — 210 kroner (18 euros) — and does not give the feeling of an epoch-making event, making the journey too prosaic and completely out of keeping with the fabulous views from the mountain.
Therefore, I recommend experiencing the magnificent views of Tromsø by walking the Sherpatrappa trail. There is no doubt that you will appreciate every meter of this climb when you see where it leads. At the same time, I must warn you: the half-kilometer height of the mountain turns into a four-kilometer hike that will take two hours. This is a task for the enduring. And also for the prepared: under no circumstances should you go to Sherpatrappa in winter without special shoes (as I did)!
The higher you climb, the more snow and ice there is on the steps. The difficulties of the ascent are nothing compared to the real danger of the descent, when you can slip and fall ten meters down. Fatalities are very rare, but every winter, tourists with fractures are evacuated by helicopter.
Polaria Aquarium
This is the northernmost aquarium in the world. And, of course, its entire exterior and interior reflect this fact. Externally, the aquarium echoes the Arctic Cathedral. It looks like chunks of ice washed ashore by the stormy waters of the North Sea.
The inhabitants of the aquarium are also predominantly northern species. Among them, the population of sea seals trained to perform in public is of particular interest. Children will undoubtedly be interested in the aquarium's "Arctic Alley." In addition to a large number of local northern creatures, there is equipment for polar research and even artificial permafrost on display.
The aquarium is open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. every day. The ticket price for adults is 220 CZK (19 euros).
Tromsø Public Library
Or the public library. It continues the list of futuristic buildings in the city. This time, the sharp, icy forms of the cathedral and aquarium are replaced by smooth ocean waves.
The library is interesting not only in terms of its appearance. Admission is free and open not only to locals but also to tourists. It is pleasant to sit on a comfortable sofa with a cup of hot drink and a book by Knut Hamsun, surrounded by intellectual company.
Charlottenlund Park and the Geophysical KSATObservatory
An unusual pair of attractions. Everyone recommends going to Charlottenlund Park to see the northern lights. This natural island in the middle of a residential neighborhood can indeed offer the greatest wonder of the northern latitudes. If the mission proves impossible (after all, you can't order nature to share its wonders), then it's still nice to just take a walk in the park. By the way, here are some life hacks on how to see the northern lights.
But if your soul categorically demands a miracle, then at least give it a man-made one. Near the park, I unexpectedly discovered an alien landscape. The mystical red illumination of the equipment pointing into space, combined with the total silence of the late evening, gave me the impression of being on a distant planet. Who knows, maybe it's the equivalent of the top-secret Area 51 in the United States? But no, it's a little more prosaic — it's the KSAT station of the local university's geophysical observatory.
Ersfjordbotn and Kalfjord
A place of great promise and unfulfilled hopes. People go there to see the most accessible fjords, which is best done in daylight (or twilight during the polar night). Hunters of the northern lights also go there (which is best done late at night). I opted for the second option and... lost. The northern lights never appeared. And it was no longer possible to see the fjords in the dark. Nevertheless, better planning andgoodluck will hopefully help you.
Getting to these locations is easy. Kalfjord is located near the final stop of city bus No. 42. There, you can transfer to suburban bus No. 425 and head to the Ersfjordbotn observation deck. In addition to beautiful views of the fjords and the potential for seeing the northern lights, you can admire a small waterfall that freezes almost completely in winter.
